Some Great Flowers for Your Garden

~ Annual and Perennial of the Week ~
June 20, 2008

The Cleome “Spirit Appleblossom”  is a tall, stiff-stemmed, back-of-the-border plant growing from 24”- 36” tall and 12”-20” wide.  This plant won Best in Show this year with its delicate-looking spidery pink blossoms that belly its tough nature.  Besides being a looker, this tough beauty attracts butterflies and hummingbirds for the wildlife enthusiast.  The Cleome “Spirit Appleblossom” is a must for the sunny hot summer garden.

Cleome “Spirit Appleblossom”

Rudbeckia Hirta “Prairie Sun” was selected as a 2003 All American Selection winner for its unique coloration: a light green center surrounded by golden petals tipped with primrose yellow.  This tall, back-of-the-border plant was selected as this year’s Best Rudbeckia for its superior heat tolerance, tight growth habit, and large blooms that provide continuous color from June until frost.  Rudbeckia Hirta “Prairie Sun” is a spectacular choice that will shine in the summer sun.

 Rudbeckia Hirta “Prairie Sun”

When planting for Colorado’s intense summers, there is no need to fight the heat or the nature of the plants.  You can pick plants such as “Spirit Appleblossom” and “Prairie Sun” that will not only survive the heat but thrive in it.  You’ll be happier and your gardens will look better.

Perennial of the Week

Happy Mediums: The Genus Epimedium in the Garden

By Panayoti Kelaidis, Denver Botanic Gardens

I suspect the most frequently asked question in recent years at Denver Botanic Gardens has been “What can I plant in dry shade?” There are Hostas of course. And one cannot live by vinca minor and woodruff alone. There are, in fact, hundreds of showy, easy-to-grow perennials wonderfully adapted to shady conditions. None are as durable, delicate or lovely in flower or leaf as the genus Epimedium. This unusual genus of herbaceous perennials grows from North Africa and the Mediterranean in the West, to much of China and Japan in the East. The mountains of Western China are the epicenter of their natural distribution. Over 50 species are known thus far, and many more are likely tucked away here or there in the giant foothills of the Himalayas.

      The flowers of Epimedium can last nearly a month during high spring, and are well worth seeking out. But the foliage is the real glory of the genus. Most have heart shaped leaves with very wiry petioles that make them look as though they are floating in mid air. The leaves are often flushed with pink or burnished orange highlights, especially in the spring.

       Although drought tolerant once established, Epimedium do best in a loose, loamy soil amended with lots of humus, and top dressed annually with compost or autumn leaves. Do keep them watered frequently their first year. Once established, they can do well with a good soaking every week or so during long dry spells.

            Epimedium x alpinum ‘Rubrum’ is one of the oldest hybrids. It thrives in Colorado. It has wonderful red flowers with white petals inside. The foliage on this species is especially brightly colored in the spring with red flushes. It is a hybrid of the only European species.

          Epimedium grandiflorum from Japan seems to have the greatest variability of flower color and beautiful foliage as well. It needs more consistent moisture than some, and more shade; it’s giant white, purple, pink or yellow flowers are worth it.

 Next time you want something that might grow next to your periwinkle to jazz things up, why not try Epimedium? You might even get hooked and seek out the newer, rarer kinds.

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DNA Lawn & Garden

Plant Select^® Promotional Article Date: June 6, 2008

St. Theresa Seedless Grape (Vitus × 'St. Theresa Seedless')

Submitted by:  Scott Skogerboe Fort Collins Wholesale Nursery

 St. Theresa Seedless Grape (Vitus × 'St. Theresa Seedless')

Woody Vine

Height:  15-20 feet Width:  3-8 feet

Blooms:  Inconspicuous Sun:  Full sun to partial shade

Soil Moisture:  Moderate  Hardiness:  USDA zones 4-9 (up to 8,000 feet)

Culture:  Garden loam

Glorious Grape

          Saint Theresa Seedless Grape (Vitis × 'St. Theresa Seedless') is a superb new table grape for the Rocky Mountain region.  This very hardy and mostly seedless (an occasional seed or two is discovered) purple grape offers an abundance of large clusters of sweet fruit in early September.  There is plenty of time following the harvest for the plant to store energy for winter.  The vine is vigorous and healthy showing little concern for our alkaline soil conditions. This is an exceptional selection bred by Elmer Swenson of Osceola, Wisconsin, renowned for breeding many selections of cold hardy grapes. Saint Theresa Seedless Grape has such notable grapes as Concord and Thompson Seedless in its lineage. 
          This wonderful, versatile vine was named in honor of Saint Theresa of Lisieux, France, the Carmelite Nun who showed her love of God by planting flowers. She is the patron Saint of AIDS sufferers and of the local cities of Pueblo, Colorado and Cheyenne, Wyoming. 
 

Photo Credit:  David Staats

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Common Sense Insect and Pest Control

By Arla Ayers, Colorado Certified Nursery Professional

 As gardeners we have become more aware of the harmful residual effects of repeated use of chemical insecticides building up in our soils, water supplies and on plant materials.  So let’s examine eco-friendly alternatives that help eliminate insects and damaging pests. 

 First re-examine and evaluate your insect tolerance level.  How many insects can exist without causing severe damage to your landscape?  Can you use cultural controls to encourage the very best amended garden soil?  Can you install healthy plants and follow good sanitation principles?  Answers to these questions will help you adjust to the following recommendations.

A good ecosystem attracts many varieties of beneficial insects.  Avoid where possible the use of toxic sprays and dusts as they will eliminate both beneficial and pest insects. Know what insects cause the most damage by accurately identifying the pest and action to take for elimination or control. 

Aphids are the #1 pest.  Aphids are soft bodied with sucking and piercing mouth parts. They feed on plant sap and excrete honeydew.  Females are born fertile and can breed every two weeks.  They cause the most damage because of their fast reproduction rate and large potential population in a very short time period.

 Controls include: 

1. Mechanical – brush off or wipe off.
2. Water Spray – use hose or spray bottle.  A strong water hose spray will dislodge aphids even separating them from their mouth parts.
3. Beneficial insects - lady bugs, lace wings or parasitic wasps can be purchased and released in your landscape to feed on aphids.
4. Reflective mulches – aluminum foil at the base of flowers will redirect aphids’ flight direction by confusing them into thinking the sky is down versus up.
5. Beneficial plants - plant aphid repellant plants, such as garlic, chives, and all varieties of alliums with your flowers.
6. If all else fails – spray insecticidal soap, neem oil or pyrethin base sprays using care to avoid killing beneficials.

Earwigs eat anything including other insects, plant material, and decaying organic matter. They feed at night and are more of a pest than anything else.  Earwigs can best be controlled by traps and barriers.

 Controls include: 

1. Traps – sink a small container in the ground to soil level.  Fill with soy sauce, beer, or vegetable oil which are all attractive to earwigs.  Empty each morning.  A second trap idea is to use rolled up newspapers secured with a rubber band, and dampened. Lay out in the evening at the edge of flower garden border or place directly in the bed.  Inspect each morning and discard if necessary. 
2. Barriers – the best material for most insects is diatomaus earth (small sharp crushed sea life) scattered at the base of plants where earwigs are observed.  Surround plants with at least a 2 inch wide strip and reapply after heavy watering or rain as this barrier is most effective when dry.

Spider Mites – are not technically insects.  They belong to the spider family and have sucking mouth parts that feed on the underside of leaves and needles.  They are most prevalent during dry conditions and can develop webbing similar to spiders. 

Controls include:

1. Water – lots of it.  Enough to alter plants environment and reduce mite population.
2. Spray - underside of plants with sharp water spray.
3. Lady bugs -  are the best mite beneficial insect for control.
4. Plants – onions, garlic and chives will naturally repel mites.
5. If all else fails – spray with insecticidal soap.

Most garden insects and pests overwinter in egg form on existing plants and in the soil.  Early spring observation and weekly monitoring will help to keep down large populations.  Quick action with the hose at first sight and then traps and barriers will aid in non-harmful control and encourage beneficial insects to help your eliminate these garden pests year after year.

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Fertilizing for Garden Success

By Susan Spencer, Spencer’s Garden Center

All landscape plants require three major nutrients: nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium. Nitrogen is essential for leaf growth and green leaves. Phosphorus is good for flower and fruit development, and potassium helps to maintain strong roots. Plants also require minor nutrients such as calcium, sulfur and magnesium, and trace minerals such as zinc, copper and chlorine. Compost made up of organic matter may be considered yet another food group for plants. Without compost, plants will not grow, no matter how much fertilizer is used.

Fertilizer is food for your plants.  The type fertilizer you use is mostly personal preference. There are two broad categories of fertilizers: synthetic and natural.

Synthetic fertilizers are made up of inorganic blends of various mineral salts. They are often considered quick-release fertilizers because the ingredients dissolve quickly in water. As a result, the nutrients are readily absorbed by the plants' roots. These types of fertilizers provide quick energy--but little nutritional value--for the plant.

Natural fertilizers are blends of natural and/or inorganic ingredients. Organic fertilizers come from plants, animals and mined minerals.  Sea kelp (seaweed), alfalfa meal,  cottonseed meal and green manure are readily available organic sources.  Living cover crops boost soil nutrition when they are turned into the soil.  Natural fertilizers from animals such as blood meal, bone meal, fish meal, and composted manure are popular choices.  Mined natural fertilizers can be found in limestone, soft rock phosphate and gypsum. Any combination of organic fertilizer will feed soil organisms, add organic matter to the soil, and feed the plant.  These fertilizers are categorized as slow-release types because the nutrients they contain dissolve slowly in water. It could take several days or even weeks before these nutrients are available to the plant.

To help guide you with your fertilizing choices visit your local garden center.  There are so many fertilizers on the market today it can be very confusing.  But, it is also to your advantage to have such a wide selection.   For container gardening keep in mind a water-soluble works best.  For larger areas, such as a lawn, you may want to consider a pelletized fertilizer that can be applied with a spreader.  Providing the proper food will ensure your gardening success!

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